I have to say that the electrical control panel was the most challenging part of this project. Before I started, the only electrical knowledge/experience I had was a class in high school and helping my dad wire 3 way switches in our old house. Thanks to a LOT of reading and a little advice from three electricians who just happen to be friends, I now have a working panel.
Disclaimer
I am not a professional electrician, nor do I play one on TV. Please do not use any photos or descriptions in this post as an example. If you do not have direct experience and or knowledge in this subject, please consult a professional. Although I am going to describe my process and the major components I settled on, I will not be providing a detailed schematic of the finished product nor will I be giving specific advice on how to wire any of the components. Please do not ask. There are several websites including TheElectricBrewery.com that give very detailed instructions and are a far better resource than myself.
First let me start with my requirements for this device:
- Simple Pulse With Modulator (PWM) control of the Boil Kettle Element
- Simple Temperature Control of my Hot Liquor Tank (HLT)
- Temperature monitoring of wort returning to the Mash Tun during HERMS
- Lighted on/off switches for two Chugger Pumps
- Incoming power 30 Amp 240 Volt
- Element activity light for each element
- 4500 Watt elements in both HLT and Boil Kettle with only one active at a time
- Safe
- Easy to use
I started by doing research on how other people were doing this, then examining each individual component to see if it was optimal for my needs. I then set about drawing crude wiring diagrams based on the components I settled on. Here are the significant components and their descriptions.
PWM Boil Controller from Auber Instruments
This is a very simple controller for a very simple job. It pulses the Boil Kettle element on a schedule base on the level you have the knob set to. As the number on the display increases, the amount of time the element is on compared to time it is off goes up. At the max setting the element is always on and at the minimum setting the element is off. This device controls DC power to the SSR below which in turn closes it's connection and allows 240 Volts to flow to the element.
DC triggered Solid State Relay (SSR) for PWM from Auber Instruments
This functions as a wired remote control device allowing the low DC Voltage of the PWM controller above to turn of and on the much higher 240 Volt AC used to power the element in the Boil Kettle.
QTY 2 DoCooler Digital Temperature Controller from Amazon
This device functions in a same way as the furnace thermostat in your house but with much finer control. One of them I am using as a digital thermometer to give me a constant display of the temperature of the wort as it is pumped back into the Mash Tun. The second one is used to control the element in the HLT so that it maintains a set temperature.
AC triggered Solid State Relay (SSR) for Temp. Controller from Auber Instruments
This SSR functions as a wired remote for turning on and off power to the HLT. It is controlled by the 110 Volt AC produced by the Digital Temperature Controller above.
QTY 2 Packard C230B Contactor 120 Volt Coil from Amazon
These two mechanical relays are controlled by a 3 position selector switch below. They are placed in line with each of the elements. When the switch is in the correct position to power one of the contactors, it engages and allows current to flow to the respective element. This functions as a safety feature preventing both elements from being activated at once which would pop the electrical service panel breaker. Their other purpose is to function as a wired remote control which negates the need to run a lot heavy gauge #10 wire to the front of the panel that has to open and close.
2 Position Selector Switch from Amazon
This switch enables/disables the 110 Volt 15 Amp leg of power from reaching the devices mounted to the front of the panel and when closed turns on the below indicator light.
110 Volt Panel On/Off Indicator Light from Amazon
This is just a simple LED light wired between hot and neutral on the front panel that lights when the above 2 position selector switch is closed.
3 Position Selector Switch from Amazon
In it's top position this switch sends no current. In the right position it sends 110 Volts to close the contactor that enables the HLT element and in the left position powers the Boil Kettle contactor.
Lighted 110 Volt 15 Amp Rocker Switches Red and Green from Amazon
I am using the red switches as an enable disable switch for the 110 Volt controls going form either the PWM or Temperature Controller to their respective SSR. This allows me a second shutoff for the elements on the control side and also provides an indicator light that is on when the respective element is on.
110 Volt 15 Amp Panel Breaker
This is the starting point for the 110 Volt front panel control circuit and is a pigtail off the black leg of the 240 Volt incoming power.
Housing Box for Components from Amazon
If I had to do over again I would have looked for a bigger box. Another two inches in length width and height would have made things much easier. Although this plastic box was easy to cut holes in for the components, the walls were too thick for the snap in components. I wound up using a Dremel tool and small file to thin the walls in the area where the clips snap into place. It worked but took a lot of time.
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| Nearly Finished! |
This is the current state of the panel. The only things left to do are to install the external connections for the temp probes, fill the mistake holes around the on and off switch, attach the wall mount bracket to the back and label all the controls. Following are some pics from my build process.
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